The Regency: Fashion and Rumours of War …
At the beginning of the 19th century tensions were running high between France and the rest of Europe. France declared war against England in 1793 and the subsequent Napoleonic Wars, 1803-1815, consisted of a series of conflicts between France and various European coalitions which went on to profoundly affect the history of the period. The Napoleonic Wars put England on high alert of the possibility of attack from France. Under George III’s rule, as part of the country’s defences, the English Army built lookouts and barracks to house military regiments along the South Coast of England. Barracks built in South Devon included those at Modbury, Totnes and Kingsbridge as well as many other coastal spots.
George’s strong defence against Napoleon did gain him public support and popularity but it was to be short lived, as by 1810, due to a decline in his mental health, his son the Prince Regent took power. This period, known as the Regency, is between the years 1811 and 1820 when the Prince of Wales governed as the Prince Regent prior to him becoming George IV after his father died. However, the Regency is also a period defined by war and revolution and, as such, is time of great change in a much wider context when Europe experienced a significant departure from the elaborate court life of the 18th century.
Picture at top of page: View of Kingsbridge Barracks, WS Lethbridge (1771 – 1831)
Picture to right: Napoleon Crossing the Alps (1805), Jacques-Louis David (1748 – 1825)
George’s strong defence against Napoleon did gain him public support and popularity but it was to be short lived, as by 1810, due to a decline in his mental health, his son the Prince Regent took power. This period, known as the Regency, is between the years 1811 and 1820 when the Prince of Wales governed as the Prince Regent prior to him becoming George IV after his father died. However, the Regency is also a period defined by war and revolution and, as such, is time of great change in a much wider context when Europe experienced a significant departure from the elaborate court life of the 18th century.
The Napoleonic Wars profoundly impacted the structure of European Societies diminishing the influence of aristocracies and monarchies. The rise of industrialisation and urbanisation shifted the social focus towards the burgeoning middle class and economic progress. Political changes, including the spread of democratic ideals and the growth of Nation-States, eroded the traditional power of royal courts. Cultural life became more public and accessible, with art, literature, and education increasingly catering to broader audiences rather than the exclusive court circles of the previous century. Consequently, the Regency is a period of huge cultural shifts. World events such as the Napoleonic Wars were deeply significant. These wars were not only pivotal in shaping political boundaries but played a significant role in transforming cultural and social norms which inevitably trickled down to fashion.
Characterized by flowing, loose-fitting garments, the Empire waistline echoed the graceful and natural forms seen in Classical art and sculpture. It comprised of a fitted bodice with a high-waist and a long, light, loose-fitting dress – usually in white or soft pale delicate colours, often sheer and worn with a long rectangular shawl or wrap.
Compared to the restrictive corsets and heavy skirts of the previous century, the Empire line with its more natural waistline was far more comfortable allowing for greater freedom of movement. This very much echoed the period’s political outlook and its emphasis on a breakaway from the old aristocracy and the embracing of new found political, cultural and social freedom. It was particularly appealing to women who wanted to engage in more social activities and outdoor pursuits. The high waistline and long flowing skirt created a sleek and elongated silhouette which was elegant and flattering and, at the same time, easy to move about in. The style emphasized the natural shape of the body, contrasting with the structured and voluminous fashions of earlier decades. The Regency era saw significant social and cultural changes, including a move towards simplicity and naturalism in fashion. The Empire line reflected these values and became a defining feature of Regency fashion due to its aesthetic appeal, practicality and alignment with the cultural and artistic trends of the time.
The Napoleonic Wars facilitated a cross-cultural exchange of fashion elements. As Napoleon’s armies traversed across Europe, they encountered and assimilated various regional styles, which were then brought back to France and beyond. This exchange led to a more eclectic fashion sense, blending elements from different cultures. The popularity of the Spanish-inspired mantilla for example and the adaptation of Eastern motifs and fabrics are typical of this period. Furthermore, the economic disruptions caused by the wars influenced the textile industry. The British naval blockade for instance, restricted the importation of fine fabrics from France encouraging the use of more readily available materials like cotton and wool. This shift not only affected the styles of the clothes people wore, but also helped to democratize fashion, making it more accessible for the middle classes.
During the Regency period, military uniforms significantly influenced fashion, infusing elements of structure, embellishment and practicality into clothing. The Napoleonic Wars saw military attire become a prominent part of everyday life and its aesthetic became increasingly fashionable. Military inspired elements such as tailored coats, brass buttons, high mandarin collars, gold and bronze coloured silks and decorative military style braids, trims, tassels, frogging and cords all became popular.
The Spencer was a close-fitting jacket worn during the Regency. Attributed to George Spencer, 2nd Earl Spencer, who was a prominent politician and Nobleman and often remembered for his significant naval reforms during the Napoleonic wars. According to history, George Spencer had the tails of his coat removed after a riding accident, creating a new fashion. Typically, for women, the Spencer was cropped just below the bust aligning with the empire waistline of dresses. This was both stylish and practical. It provided an extra layer of warmth without obscuring the fashionable silhouette of the high-waited dress and was particularly useful in the cooler months or during evening outings. The Spencer could be worn for various occasions including more formal events as well as outdoor activities such as walking or riding.
Both the Spencer and the Pelisse reflected the Regency’s sensibilities. These garments, originally designed for warmth and utility, echoed the structured, authoritative look of military uniforms and resonated with the clean lines and practical elegance of a soldier’s attire. Both were versatile garments that blended practicality with the era’s aesthetic values and remain iconic examples of Regency fashion. These choices, integrated into women’s wear, reflected a sense of patriotism and solidarity with the war efforts. They gave a nod to the eras prevailing martial spirit, proving the Napoleonic Wars significantly impacted early 19th century fashion by promoting practicality, simplicity, incorporating military influences and encouraging cultural exchanges. These changes laid the ground work for modern fashion, steering it away from the ornate styles of the past and towards a more functional and diverse aesthetic.
Superb examples of both a Spencer (short jacket) and a Pelisse (long walking coat) can be seen on display at the Cookworthy Museum. They are part of our new ‘work-in-progress’ 19th century costume display and are shown alongside an Empire line sheer muslin dress worn by a member of the Ilbert family, from Kingsbridge, at the Duchess of Richmond’s Ball on the eve of the Battle of Waterloo in 1815.
